I’m so near having the primary of the 2 curtains panels completed for the again entry of the studio. The primary one is taking me a bit longer just because it has been so lengthy since I’ve made lined pinch-pleated curtains, so I’m having to recollect the method alongside the way in which. I assumed I might maybe refer again to my very own tutorial, however I noticed that I don’t even have a tutorial on how you can make a easy, no-frills, no-trim, single-width lined curtain panel.
So I assumed I’d take this chance to take photographs of every step in order that I can present a step-by-step tutorial on how you can make a single-width, lined, pinch-pleated curtain panel. So right here we go!
First, I set up my curtain rod and rings. I used to do that after the curtain panels had been made and able to be hung, however I’ve discovered that it’s a lot simpler to put in the rod first, after which make the curtains to suit the peak of the put in curtain rod.
I additionally go forward and add the rings, however I take away the clips first. No correctly made curtain panels ought to ever be hung utilizing clips.
As soon as these the rings are added, I can measure for the completed peak of my curtain panels. I measure from the ground to proper on the prime of the little hook ring, which gave me a measurement of 88 7/8 inches. Then I subtract about 1/4 inch to get my completed size for my curtain panels.
Subsequent, I minimize my cloth. For every panel, I enable about three yards of cloth. Step one is to sq. up the underside fringe of the material. I do that by folding the material in half lengthwise, after which utilizing a framing sq. (you possibly can inform I’m a builder at coronary heart 😀 ) to sq. up the underside fringe of the material.
As soon as the underside is sq., I usually minimize off the selvage on each side of the material. For these curtains, I’m utilizing Spoonflower cloth, which is printed with this massive white area on each facet edges.
So as a substitute of chopping off simply the selvage, I minimize off all the white space proper as much as the printed design. I repeated that on the opposite facet fringe of the material.
As soon as the material was all trimmed, I measured the (new) width of the material and wrote down that quantity. My cloth was 53 7/8 inches extensive after being trimmed.
With the material all trimmed and squared on the underside, I used to be able to pin within the hem. I did this by turning the material up 4 inches and pinning it into place alongside the underside fold.
Right here’s a have a look at it as soon as it was folded and pinned all the way in which throughout.
After which I folded it up once more one other 4 inches, pinned it into place alongside the highest fold of the hem, after which ironed the folds into place.
With a purpose to sew the hem, I used a blind hem sew on my stitching machine. First, I folded the four-inch hem again towards the face of the material in order that solely the highest fringe of the folded hem was uncovered on the fitting facet, and the again of the material was displaying on the left. After which I positioned that underneath the foot of the machine.
Here’s what a blind hem sew appears like. Most machines have this sew. Even my $120 Kenmore stitching machine that I began off with 20 years in the past had this sew.
It should sew about 4 or 5 stitches on the fitting, alongside the highest fold of the hem, after which each fifth or sixth sew, it can attain over to the left and seize simply the tiniest little bit of that cloth on the left.
Right here’s a closeup of what that sew appears like with the hem nonetheless folded again towards the entrance of the material.
After which when the hem is unfolded, it appears like this…
And when the material is turned over with the fitting facet of the material going through up, you possibly can’t even see these stitches, therefore the identify “blind hem sew.”
Right here’s a fair nearer look. Are you able to see the stitches? In individual, if you happen to’re actually searching for them, you possibly can see them. However no informal viewer of those curtains is ever going to note these stitches.
Placing that cloth apart for some time, I used to be prepared to organize the liner for the curtain panel. Simply as I did with the material panel, I began by squaring up the underside edge, after which pinning a double three-inch fold alongside the underside edge. I all the time do a double four-inch fold for my face cloth hem, and a double three-inch fold for the liner hem.
As soon as that pinned in and ironed, I sewed that hem into place with a regular prime sew. You are able to do a blind hem sew on the liner as effectively, however I by no means have. I don’t see the purpose in it, and since I’m making these for me, I’m wonderful with a topstitch. If I had been working in an expert material workroom and making them for a paying buyer, I’d select in any other case.
One of many causes I don’t trouble is as a result of I all the time use blackout lining, and there’s simply actually no hiding stitches on blackout lining. I really like the blackout function, however I hate that it reveals each single sew, and even each single place the place pins are added. And wrinkles are nearly unimaginable to take away from blackout lining. So a topstitch is ok for me.
And the very last thing to do to organize the liner is to chop it to the right width. I had already measured the minimize width of my face cloth, which was 53 7/8 inches. To determine the minimize width that I wanted for my lining, I simply subtracted 4 inches from that quantity. So I measured and minimize my lining to 48 7/8 inches extensive. Since blackout lining doesn’t have a selvage, I solely wanted to make one minimize alongside one facet edge to get the right width. If I had been utilizing a thinner cloth lining with selvages, I might have minimize each facet edges.
Now that I had the face cloth and the liner prepped, I used to be prepared to affix them collectively. I did this by putting the face cloth, proper facet up, on my work desk.
After which I positioned the liner, proper facet down, on prime of the material. Measuring from the underside fringe of the hemmed cloth, I measured up 2 1/2 inches for the position of the underside fringe of the hemmed lining, and commenced pinning the liner and cloth collectively alongside the facet edge.
So once more, the fitting (face) facet of the material and the fitting (face) facet of the liner are going through one another, and the underside hemmed fringe of the face cloth extends 2 1/2 inches beneath the underside hemmed fringe of the liner.
And I pinned these collectively all the way in which up the facet of the material.
Subsequent, I pinned the opposite facet collectively. Because the lining was minimize 4 inches narrower than the face cloth, it initially seemed like this with the items mendacity flat on one another.
So I needed to pull the liner over in order that the sting of the liner met the sting of the face cloth. I made positive that the underside hemmed fringe of the liner was 2 1/2 inches up from the underside hemmed fringe of the face cloth, pinned that into place, after which labored my means up the facet edge, pinning the to items collectively all the way in which up.
Subsequent, I sewed the items collectively alongside each facet edges, stitching my straight sew one inch from the sting. That’s rather a lot wider than a regular 5/8 inch that’s usually used when stitching most gadgets (like clothes or pillows), however you’ll see why later. I repeated that on the opposite facet.
Only a be aware: When stitching the liner and face cloth collectively, I sew each side stepping into the identical course. In different phrases, if I begin stitching on the hems and work my option to the highest of the material panel on one facet, I be certain that to start out on the hem and work my option to the highest on the opposite facet as effectively. That’s only a good follow and can prevent a headache if you happen to ever occur to be working with a material that shifts or crawls just a little because it’s sewn. If it’s going to crawl, not less than each side will likely be crawling in the identical course.
With the edges sewn collectively, I all the time steam iron these stitches into place to clean out the stitches as completely as attainable.
Then I separate the liner and face cloth, and steam iron the seam in order that the face cloth is folded again on itself, and the liner is straight (i.e., not folded).
And eventually, I flip the panel proper facet out, and steam iron that seam as soon as once more from this facet. Once more, I be certain that I’m ironing it in order that the material is folded towards itself, and the liner is straight.
With all the things ironed flat, I’m prepared to put the curtain panel again on my work desk and get all of it straightened out and flattened. I begin on the backside hemmed edges, and pin the 2 layers collectively all the way in which throughout.
After which flatten and clean the layers till they appear to be this, with one inch of the face cloth displaying alongside the again of every facet edge.
As soon as all the things is totally clean and flat, I give these edges a very good steam iron another time to ensure these folds within the face cloth are securely in place, and I’ve a clear, sharp ironed-in crease alongside the sting of the material panel.
And that’s so far as I’ll get for at the moment. Tomorrow, I’ll present you how you can end the panel with the pleated header on the prime, and all the ending hand stitching that I do for a very clear, completed look. So keep tuned for that!
Addicted 2 Adorning is the place I share my DIY and adorning journey as I transform and enhance the 1948 fixer higher that my husband, Matt, and I purchased in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do bodily work, so I do the vast majority of the work on the home on my own. You can learn more about me here.